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A few of my favorite things.

 
 

Pencils

I’m starting here because I start images with pencil sketches.

As cool as the Blackwing pencils are, they are expensive, and you must carry a pencil sharpener. When in the studio, I will reach for a Blackwing occasionally. However, these Pentel Sharp mechanical pencils are my daily drivers. I love the .9mm for the thicker lead. It allows me to stay looser. I’ll love the .5mm for note-taking and executing the finer details in drawings.

The Staedtler Lead holder has been a staple since Mr. Ferbee’s high school drafting class. Again, I love the ability to load different leads mid-drawing without dealing with traditional pencil sharpeners. The cap has a built-in sharpener, and it’s brilliant. I’ve run across so many people unaware of that feature.

The Col-Erase Vermillion pencil is my favorite underdrawing pencil, and it’s becoming increasingly difficult to find. I had to switch to the Mitsubishi 2637 to keep my favorite color. I found a full Vermillion pencil from Mitsubishi and will report back on it.

 

My favorite was the Col-Erase Pencil Vermillion pencil, but I can’t find them any more and started using Tombow or the Mitsubishi below.

 
 

Brush Pens

I love a good brush pen. They are expressive and allow an incredible range of mark-making.

The Kuretake Brush Pen No. 8 is wonderful and has a delicate head. I find there is more control in details with this brush.

The Pentel Pocket Brush is a workhorse. It can take a bit more aggressive use than Kuretake, which makes it easier to get dry brush strokes. Eventually, The brush will not snap back like the Kuretake, but at a lower price point, you can have a heavier hand and pick up a new one when needed.

One of my favorite brush pens with a felt nib is the Pilot Brush Pen (Hard). These have a nice range of mark-making as well. I have a slightly heavy hand when inking, so the hard nib is my go-to.

There are a plethora of other brush pens. Jet Pens is a great place to check out various brush pens and other supplies. Sometimes, pens are cheaper here than on Amazon but shipping is a wash until you hit a price point..

 
 
 

Sketchbooks

I’d been using Moleskines for years before finding Baron Fig. Both brands offer great sketchbooks. I prefer the Moleskine Art because the pages are a bit thicker and will take a beating from a variety of wet media. My observational sketching and experimenting happen in the Moleskine Art.

If you're looking for sketchbooks with whiter paper than Moleskine's Art collection, I'd recommend Rendr Sketchbooks.

The Dot Grid Moleskine and Baron Fig are both exceptional. The dot gridis my preferred paper for note taking and working on designs.

I recently started carrying a pocket-size notebook to capture ideas when out and about. Both Baron Fig and Moleskine offer a smaller size.

 

Moleskine Classic Notebook, Hard Cover,
Large (5" x 8.25") Dotted

 
Cyanotype Supplies
Mural Supplies
Library
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Shhhhhhhhhh.
You’re in the library now.

 
 
 
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Mural Materials

 
 

Brushes & Rollers

Having done some house painting over the years, I invested in Purdy Brushes. However, murals are a slightly different beast. Switching between colors quickly is key, so I picked up a Pro Grade brush set—affordable and solid quality.


Rollers are also essential for covering large areas efficiently. A few different roller sizes will make a big difference in getting the job done smoothly.

 

Pro Grade, Paint Brushes, 5-Piece Set

Pro Grade Brush Set

Paint Tray Liners

Paint Tray

Ladders, Containers and Transportation

Ladders are a must, and knowing your wall and workspace will determine what type you need. I prefer an A-frame ladder over an extension ladder—bulkier but more versatile.

Transporting gear efficiently saves time and energy. The Sekey 220L Collapsible Wagon has been a lifesaver for moving supplies in fewer trips.

Also look into a smaller step ladder and an extension pole (for high areas without a ladder).

 

Handy Paint Pail & Liner

Sekey 220L Collapsible Foldable Wagon

Paint Pens

Paint pens are great for quick color application on smooth surfaces, especially when you want an organic or monoline look. However, they don’t work well on rough textures.

I recommend Grog Squeezers from Bombing Science. I bought the empty markers and filled them with my own paint using plastic syringes—one per color to avoid constant washing.

Skip these marker-style pens, regular house paint will be to thick.

 

Grog Squeeze Marker

Tape and tarps, keep your space clean.

Tape is a double-edged sword—it can help create crisp lines or completely wreck an underprepared surface. I used FrogTape in both Pro Grade Orange (high adhesion) and Green (medium adhesion). The orange was too strong, pulling up primer and underpaint.

For flooring, I prefer the heavier canvas tarps since they prevent bleed-through. If I’m working in a carpeted space, I lay down a thin plastic sheet underneath for extra protection—#ClientRelations.

 

Frog Tape

Canvas Drop Cloth

Poly Drop Cloth

 
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Cyanotype Supplies

I’ll start with this video of how my late wife, Julie, and I made cyanotypes for Canceled Con. It walks through the entire process and gives you a look at how we approached making images together.

From there, you can be as budget conscious as you’d like. There are plenty of specialized tools and supplies you can pick up, but you may already have some of what you need tucked away around the house.

 
 

Chemistry, Brushes, & Paper

There are a lot of options when it comes to cyanotype chemistry, brushes, and paper. Here are the supplies I’ve used and what I’ve learned along the way.

Chemistry

For years, I’ve only ever used Photographers Formulary Liquid Cyanotype from B&H.

More recently, I tried Jacquard’s chemistry, and it worked great as well.

Brushes

I prefer Hake Brushes for applying the chemistry to paper. I’ve also used foam brushes, but I don’t love how quickly they fall apart.

If you’re just getting started, I’d recommend beginning with an inexpensive brush. If you discover that you love making cyanotypes, you can always invest in nicer supplies as you go.

Paper

Paper is where things can get really fun. There are plenty of options, with different surface finishes including hot press, cold press, and rough. You can find paper in pads, blocks, loose sheets, rolls, and more.

The good news is that there isn’t one "right" paper. Experiment and see what you like. Different papers can give your images noticeably different textures and character.

The paper I reach for most often is Arches Hot Press. It’s a little pricey, but it produces beautiful results and is lovely to work with.

I also keep an eye out for sales on Strathmore 400 and 500 Series paper when I’m wandering through art stores. It’s a great way to experiment with different papers without spending a fortune.

 

Kits

I get it, there are lots of variables. For now, maybe try spending $35-60 bucks on a kit that has just enough for you to try it out and begin forming opinions about what your preferences are.

Here are a few kits to choose from based on your knowledge and budget.

This kit by Botanopia USA is one that looks to have everything that you would need.

Jacquard makes a kit as well that looks to be rather complete.

There are cheaper options, but they will be missing some elements that make your life easier.
Here is a $25 Kit.

 

The Extras

There are lots of other supplies that will make life easier for you as you make cyanotypes.

Glass, clips, contact frames, but that is coming soon.

 
 
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